Only Hungarian cooks use more bacon in their hearty soups than Germans and Austrians do, and perhaps the most beloved Austrian classic is this thick lentil one bursting with smoky Speck and flavorful frankfurters, like one I had not long ago in Dürnstein while cruising the Danube. In Austrian country restaurants and Stuben, I've listened more than once to heated debate over whether genuine Linsensuppe should contain a little vinegar to counter the other rich ingredients. I think about two tablespoons helps to create just the right balance, but you may want to add a bit more during the final simmer.
Serve this soup during the winter with a big bowl of red cabbage coleslaw, a loaf of dark pumpernickel bread, and, of course, steins of frothy lager.
Yields: Makes 6 servings Change Amounts:
Ingredients:
1/2 pound smoked slab bacon (preferably Speck), rind removed
2 quarts water
2 cups dried quick-cooking lentils, rinsed
1 medium leek (part of light green leaves included), finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
1 large carrot, scraped and finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoo all-purpose flour
2 tablespoo cider vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 frankfurters, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
Preparation:
Step 1:
Cut 2 slices from the bacon slab and set the slab aside on a plate. In a large skillet, fry the bacon slices till they render their fat, transfer the slices to a plate, and set the skillet of fat aside.
Step 2:
In a heavy 4- to 5-quart pot or casserole, bring the water to a boil. Add the lentils, the slab and slices of cooked bacon, and the leek, celery, and carrot. Return to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Step 3:
Heat the fat in the skillet over moderate heat, add the onion, and stir till softened, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the onion, reduce the heat to low, and stir till the flour is golden brown. Ladle about ½ cup of the lentil soup into the skillet and whisk till the mixture is thick and smooth. Add the vinegar and salt and pepper and stir well. Scrape the contents of the skillet into the lentil soup, stir well, cover, and simmer till the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.
Step 4:
With a slotted spoon, remove the bacon to a cutting surface, cut into small dice, and return it to the soup with the frankfurter rounds. Simmer about 5 minutes longer and serve the soup hot in heavy soup bowls.